Watercolor Paint : Get to Know Your Supplies Series

Watercolor has a reputation for being simple—and it is—but the materials you choose play a quiet, powerful role in how enjoyable and successful your painting experience feels. From how paint flows to how paper responds to water, each supply has a purpose beyond just being “art stuff.” This six-part series for beginner watercolor painters walks through the core watercolor supplies, explaining what they are, how they behave, and why they matter, so you can make confident choices without feeling overwhelmed. Whether you’re just starting out or refining your setup, think of this as a practical foundation for painting with more ease and intention.

This is the first in a series of short talks on watercolor supplies aimed at helping beginners get to know and best use their supplies. Today's topic: Paint!

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Paints 

Watercolor pigments come in primarily (but not exclusively) in two types:

Pans: These little guys are tidy and portable, making them ideal for painting on the go. I like them for plein air painting sets like this one.

Tubes: These are richer and easier for large washes, allowing for bigger or more specific looks in different projects.

Brands

Brand choice is very personal, there are many good brands. Personally, because I value granulation and intensity, I favor ShinHan, Holbien, Daniel Smith watercolor paints. I do not recommend Winsor Newtons Cotman series - they have a sticky, gluey texture that makes mixing and reactivating difficult. The rest of Windsor Newton's paints are good quality, jsut skip the Cotman line. For beginners, use whatever you have and enjoy experimenting.

What is it made of?

So you've got your pans or tubes, but what actually do you have in there? Watercolor paint is made of pigment suspended in a binder. The pigment provides the color, while the binder (usually gum arabic) allows the paint to dissolve in water and adhere to paper. This is why watercolor remains transparent and reactivates with water, even after drying.

Properties

Not all pigments behave the same way. Some are transparent, allowing light to pass through layers (viridian, prussian blue), while others are opaque and cover more strongly (lemon yellow, crimson). Certain pigments granulate (ultramarine), settling into the texture of the paper and creating a speckled or textured look, while others dry smooth and even (cobalt). Learning how your pigments behave is just as important as learning color theory.

You may also notice that some colors stain the paper (i'm looking at you, viridian) while others lift easily (indigo). Staining pigments sink quickly into the paper and are harder to remove, making them great for bold, permanent color. Non-staining pigments are easier to lift and adjust, which can be helpful for soft washes and corrections.

By the way, if you see the word "hue" beside the name of a color on a tube of paint, such as cadmium red hue, this just means that it does not contain toxic ingredients from the traditional way of making that color - it has a substitute ingredient in it.

Less is More

When starting out, you don’t need a huge collection of colors and brands. A small, thoughtfully chosen palette of 10 to 14 colors will teach you more than dozens of colors. Focus on learning how a few pigments mix, layer, and interact with water. Over time, you’ll naturally discover which colors you reach for most and which suit your personal style.

Watercolor pigments reward curiosity. Take time to test them, push them, and observe how they move—because understanding your paint is the first step to painting with confidence.

Happy Painting! - Em